There are places that ask nothing of us, and places that ask everything: our breath, our patience, our nerve on a hairpin turn with a valley falling away beside us. The road from Srinagar through Sonamarg and Kargil to Leh is the second kind. It doesn’t so much welcome us into Ladakh as make us earn it, mile by climbing …
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Vehicular movement on the main road connecting Khagrachhari with the popular tourist …
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